So we were supposed to faff around Spitsbergen for a few days before heading north but our charming captain says no, we are going to head straight to the North Pole. There was no argument from us! It’s what we came for anyway. The first day we spotted bear tracks on the sea ice and we followed for a while but there were no bears. Boo hoo. 

But, the next day qu’elle surprise, a special announcement from the bridge! Much excitement as there was a bear right in front of the ship. 

We drifted in the ice and followed it for an hour. She was beautiful and curious and looked up at the ship a lot. Everyone was so blissed out, especially our captain who loves wildlife but also delights in pleasuring his passengers. Everyone loves Captain Étienne!

While I called her a she, it’s only an educated guess. One of the naturalists gave us a talk on how to differentiate - females have a rounder more shapely butt and less facial scarring. So now you know! Also pictured is my lunatic travel agent Paul, who dresses like a bear most days. 

Besides our destination, this trip is all about polar bears because I need to feed my obsession after not quite seeing a single bear last year in Greenland. We have requested the captain to now find us a mother with cubs, and also a bear eating a seal. Our fingers and toes are firmly crossed. Meanwhile, we have gunners forming a safety perimeter on the ice for our promenading pleasure, but so far no bears where we are currently stationed. Which is a good thing I guess.