I woke up a bit dusty so headed straight outside for a swim at 7am. I had the deck to myself and revelled in the solitude. The outdoor pool - known as the Blue Lagoon - is just 60cm deep so you’re forced to wallow. It’s heated to 35 degrees. It was a little rock and rolly as the ship carved through the sea ice but not dangerously so. I found the movement lively but pleasant. 

I returned for a second swim after breakfast which was fortuitous as the next time I ventured outside the pool was empty and closed. Too much movement, apparently. Drat! 

Lunch had to be worked off so I opted for the indoor pool which has a resistance jet to swim against. I was booked for a massage and hair ahead of the first gala evening, so took the opportunity to experience all that the spa offers - another sauna with a view and for the first time I sat in the snow room. It seems incongruous when we are surrounded by snow and ice but it was weirdly fun. As was the blow wave with a martini and a view over the sea ice. 

The hedonism had actually started well before the high seas, as 25 of us lucky passengers scored a private jet to take us from Paris to Svalbard. We didn’t even have to schlepp all the way out to Charles de Gaulle! It was next-level luxury and has probably ruined me for commercial flying, lol. More shenanigans to follow. 

Meet Holger, hotel manager