The morning was a panic of packing and panadol after a rather large Saturday night in downtown Osaka. I had arrived with three pieces of luggage but somehow left the hotel with five…something needs to happen before I fly next week.

As expected, thigh burn has settled in and increased through the day so we spent a couple of hours having a Thai foot and leg massage before the next adventure. It was a bit like a Pilates session that combined reflexology, shiatsu, regular massage, and at one stage my beautiful therapist even climbed on top of me like a ninja. My thighs are still killing me but hopefully they will settle down soon. 

Finally we set off for the port where our home for the next nine days awaited. Madame Commodore’s elevated status with Ponant got us early access and we were first aboard, greeted by the captain and crew. As we should be!

Schoolchildren were portside to send us off with a brass band and gymnastics display, and I had an excellent catch-up with Ponant’s Head of Japan and expedition leader Ryo, whose life I made very difficult a few years ago when I fell into an ice drift in the Weddell Sea. Luckily he has forgiven me now! 

It’s calm now, but drama awaits us on this cruise: a substantial itinerary change and much excitement as a typhoon heads northwest into our path. Jennie and I want waves, but the captain says Non, madames!

Our first night was a blur of socialising and instructing the bar staff how we like our drinks. There are 145 passengers, the majority French and Aussie with a dozen Japanese and a smattering of Kiwis, Brits and North Americans. The crew are friendly and excellent, unusually the safety officer is from Sydney, the cruise director Italian (a lunatic) and the entertainers all lovely. Happy days.